The small village in the southeastern corner of Närke has long been on our list of places to visit. On a sunny summer day, the time has finally come. The car drives deeper and deeper into the dark Tylö Forest. When we arrive, summer has vanished. Heavy raindrops pound against the car roof. Our first glimpse of the small industrial community will have to be through the car window.
The sudden disappearance of the sun feels symbolic. Björnhammaren was once a thriving community. About 100 people worked at the mill, drawing iron wire that was turned into nails at Gryt’s factory a few kilometers away. In the center of the village stood Gullans ICA grocery store, and there was even a private spur track from the railroad line between Örebro and Norrköping.
From a family idyll to empty houses in Björnhammaren
The old workers’ housing soon proved insufficient for the growing village. In the 1960s, the mill had an entire street built with ten yellow houses to attract families with children. The street was named Björnhammars ågata, but it became known locally as “Happy Street.” A street that quickly filled with life and play. And perhaps also with song.
But the economic restructuring hit Björnhammaren hard. Nail production required fewer and fewer workers, and one by one, the houses in the village stood empty. No new tenants were in sight. The sounds of play and song on Lyckliga Street grew increasingly quiet.
There were no new tenants in sight. The playing and singing on Happy Street gradually died down.
In 2008, the last door was locked for good. Six years later, the wire factory was nothing but a memory. The empty buildings were left to their fate. Word of the abandoned street spread, and curious visitors made their way to the village. Many just wanted to experience the almost ghostly atmosphere. Others had darker intentions. The buildings were vandalized and furnishings were stolen.
Now Björnhammaren is looking ahead
After the nail factory went bankrupt, the story of Lyckliga gatan came to an end. The 1960s-era houses were demolished, and most of the other houses in the village were sold to private owners. After serving as a refugee camp for a few years, many of the older buildings are now being renovated to serve as permanent residences and vacation homes. Perhaps Björnhammaren is about to experience a new spring?
We decide to leave the street alone. Maybe that’s for the best. It feels better to look ahead.
The rain has stopped. We venture out and walk past the old store that has been renovated into a charming private residence. Across the street, the old factory catches our attention. Its oversized chimney soars toward the sky, as if it were a monument to the industrial era. Just behind it stands one of the older workers’ housing units. The paint has peeled away, most of the windows gape empty, and the rose bushes are soon covering large parts of the ground floor. It’s easy to draw a parallel to Sleeping Beauty’s castle. Hopefully, this house will also wake up soon.
We continue on to three more rows of red houses. Renovation work has already begun here. The gables are a reminder of the days of decay, while the long sides are covered in fresh, newly painted boards. Right next door are several houses, most of them in classic Falun red. Cars and outdoor furniture remind us that parts of Björnhammaren are a perfectly ordinary community. And that there is a sense of hope for the future here. A new parking area with a beautiful view of the lake offers even more hope.
54 flavors of ice cream in Hjortkvarn
We’re approaching the entrance to Happy Street. There’s a man walking his dog. The dog looks angry. We decide to give the street a pass. Maybe that’s for the best. It feels better to look ahead.
On our way home, we stop in the neighboring town of Hjortkvarn. The line at the ice cream parlor Gó Glass, the town’s main tourist attraction, winds its way far beyond the entrance. We don’t let that get us down. The chance to choose from fifty-four flavors is something we don’t want to miss. The café’s outdoor seating area is filled with tourists enjoying their ice cream. Perhaps some of them will find their way to Björnhammaren in the future? A place worth remembering for more than just a happy street that no longer exists.
Please note!
Björnhammaren has an interesting history and should be treated with respect. Feel free to visit the village, but keep in mind that all houses, even the empty ones, are private property. So whether someone lives in the house or not, you should act as if the house were occupied. You need the owner’s permission to enter the house or walk on the property. svt.se has helpful information on what to keep in mind if you visit an abandoned house or similar property.
Want to read more fascinating stories? Here you can read about Sweden’s best-preserved historic crematorium.
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